Sunday, February 6, 2011

Kampuchea-people






So this is it the last blog -just wanted to talk about Kampuchea and the Khmer people. My views are certainly influenced by our stay in a tourist town but we did have some time out in the countryside. The people seem to be at least as friendly as the vietnamese where the spectre of totalatarianism is quite noticeable from the sentries guarding Ho Chi Minh's tomb to the red and gold flags (including hammer and sickle) everywhere. We really didnt experience any metropolis in Kampuchea like Saigon or Hanoi. People seem to be constantly on the move in both countries. The population density of Kampuchea is far less than Vietnam. We noticed great expanses of land without dwellings in Kampuchea while this was not the case in Vietnam. In the rural areas , the Khmer people still seem to have a hamlet lifestyle which seems less so in Vietnam. Our guide told us that in rural areas of Kampuchea you can tell a families wealth by the type of roof they have in descending order: tile, tin, thatched and palm leaves. Most of the rural homes are built on stilts and are generally two room except for the well off. Many of the homes are without electricity utilizing a car battery for electrical needs mostly TV. There is no indoor plumbing (all these "necessities" were available to the average Vietnamese family)





In the country people depend on well water which is potable in the city as in Vietnam water is not potable and people boil it or use bottled.
boiling palm juice down to sugar

The concentrated palm sugar is used to make candies by adding it to these molds
One thing I didn't like was that every temple was turned into a tourist trap- you are descended on by a horde of venders at least two or three selling books, several selling clothing, children selling postcards and others selling drinks-never mean or angry but persistent and following you for at least 50 yds before reaching the entrance. However many of the children were adorable and most were polyglots conversing in english and french and knowing the capitals of several american states (Albany).

At many of the sites there were musicians all who had been victimized by mines with the loss of one or more limbs. Now some shots taken over the last two days









Rice is King!


Green Papaya -present in most of the salads



Thought it would be appropriate to talk about the food-definitely not in the same class as Vietnamese-some of the same items but generally without the spices and always with a half sphere of rice. However in the last two nights we found two superb restaurants using Trip Advisor-sort of a Zagat like source on the internet. Restaurants rated by patrons with their comments published. Last night we were taken by Tuk-Tuk (the major mode of transport in lieu of taxis (a cart for up to four people pulled by a motorscooter) to the Touich - a family run restaurant in the middle of nowhere where they played Edith Piaf and Norah Jones.
Tuk-Tuk 



Anyway had fun writing this -sort of became my stimulus to organize what we saw each day. Hope you enjoyed it and gave you some insight into these countries. Now its time to

Kampuchea-temples and people (cont)

Had to publish last one was going on and off line. Friday morning after taking in the sunrise at Angkor Wat we went to Angkor Thom and Bayon Temple.  These  were built by Jayavarman VII in the late 12 th century. Angkor Thom means "Great City". It is protected by a 26ft wall 7.5 miles long and surrounded by a wide moat. There are five gates each with four stone faces. The Bayon Temple is at the center of the city. Jayavarman VII is felt to be the greatest of the Khmer kings building free hospitals and roads that run to Vietnam and Thailand complete with rest stops.
Evil figures guarding one of the gates to Angkor Thom -Good figures are on the left



Gate Entrance


Bayon Temple

Bas reliefs show battles , scenes of everyday life and Hindu legends







Cobra head usually at the end of balustrades



Elephant heads with trunks
In the afternoon we went to Ta Prohm temple also known as the jungle temple-restoration was done without removing trees which have continued to grow throughout the temple. Tomb raiders was filmed here because of the eerie nature. Unfortunately my camera battery died (you were right Alexis-I ordered another but they sent the wrong type) so you'll have to see Michele and Solange's comprehensive recording when they return.
Will leave you with some selected shots from other temples we visited- Will try to get in one more blog about the Khmer.


Siva in the middle has assumed the form of half man half monster to kill the most evil villain who can't be killed by man or monster

The trees are incredible including this elbow bend-many mahogany trees

Temple gate

Buddha









5 headed snake with tree growing out of the top

Tree roots inside the window and growing in front

Same tree from the outside